How to Stake a Tree the Right Way
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That newly planted addition to your yard might need some help to grow up big and strong.
Many new trees do just fine on their own. In fact, the movement they experience from normal wind and weather helps trees develop strong root systems and solid trunk girth. But new trees in open areas often require staking early in their lives. Tree staking anchors young trees and supports them while they begin to grow.
Staking a tree “prevents leaning while the tree is being established,” says Gary Schermerhorn, arborist and a district manager for the Davey Tree Expert Company in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania. However, proper staking technique and materials are essential. If a tree does not need staking or is not staked properly, the effort can backfire and do more harm than good.
Benefits of Staking Trees
Though most new trees planted in protected areas do not need help, there are several scenarios in which it’s beneficial—even necessary—to stake a tree during its first growing season. For those that need help, tree staking provides several key benefits. Chief among these is preventing leaning of a tree, often in the direction of the prevailing wind in the open area where it’s planted.
In addition, the tree might need help becoming established as the trunk and roots grow. If the tree is subjected to too much wind or excessive foot traffic, the root ball can move around in the soil, which can damage the roots. Staking helps prevent this, and lowers risk of root damage or even uprooting a tree. Finally, stakes around a tree offer a barrier of sorts near the base of the tree, helping to sway people, pets, and lawn mowers away from a young trunk.
When Does a Tree Require Staking?
Although many new trees do not need staking, some young trees planted in the open benefit from help to get started. In particular, the following tree types and situations can call for staking:
- Those planted in strong and prevailing wind conditions or slopes—wind might blow a young tree right out of the ground or break its main trunk
- New trees establishing roots in sandy soil and in the open are more likely to need staking
- Certain tree varieties that are more vulnerable to wind damage, such as eucalyptus, oleander, hibiscus, mesquite hybrids, and acacia trees
- Bare-root trees or trees with small root balls as their roots take hold and grow
- Trees planted in areas with lots of foot traffic
- Young trees planted in areas with enough rainfall to cause overly wet soil
- Top-heavy trees with no lower branches
- A new tree that does not stand up well on its own or begins to lean after planting
How Long Should a Tree Be Staked?
“Generally, if the tree appears to be anchored and steady, the stakes should be removed before the next growing season,” says Jason Parker, district manager, the Davey Tree Expert Company, in Horsham, Pennsylvania. It usually takes a full growing season for a tree to develop sturdy roots. So, if properly staked in spring, remove the stakes in fall “if the tree feels supported and can stand on its own,” he says, though in some circumstances, trees need to be staked longer, even as long as a year. If the tree is large, still shows signs of unsteadiness, leans, or appears weak, leave the stakes on a little longer.
“Typically, though, it’s recommended not to stake past 6 months so the tree can develop some strength and grow supporting wood,” says Parker, “If it’s staked for too long, it may become reliant on the stakes for support and may struggle to support itself once the stakes are removed,” he says. In the end, a tree that is staked for too long has a weaker trunk and less-developed root system than it should.
Avoid staking any tree and forgetting about it, since the materials used to support the tree can damage it if left on too long. Wires, in particular, can girdle and damage a trunk, and are not recommended.
How To Stake a Tree in 4 Steps
The best way to stake a tree is with purchased tree stakes and straps, or you can make your own. These steps apply to small trees—those that have trunks that are 1.25 to 4 inches around and heights of 8 to 14 feet. Most ball, burlap, and container-grown transplants fall in this size range and do well with just staking, versus other tree-stabilization methods.
Guying is similar to staking, but ties trees to several shorter tree anchors. Larger trees also might need ground anchors, steel cable, and lag hooks, Schermerhorn adds. It might be best to call in an arborist to secure larger trees.
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